• a hundred or so pieces of jewlery with precious stones
• 152 pieces of garments or garment details (?)

• red , black or brown velvet
• black,brown,white and red cloth (among them spanish cloak)
• black silkatlas(?)
• tobin
• damask
• black and white silktafetta
• golden cloth

Most of these with silver or goldthread embellishments.

• gold and silver cloth
• carmosine velvet
• damask
• atlas
• tobin
• camlott
• tafetta
• carteck with a lining of precious furs

To the simpler garments, presumably for everyday use ;

• 11 white kirtles of grey cloth or wool of some kind lined with foxfur

The dukes pages ;

• black velvet
• golden cloth
• golden and red damask

The virgins/maids ;

• kirtles of damask, cloth,camelot,cartek,saijen

   

1578 The maiden Philippa Eriksdotter Fleming, Yläne farm/estate

1583 Herr Svante Eriksson Stålarm, master to Kiala, Borgå

 FROM PROBATES OF FARMERS AND COMMONERS IN THE 1500s

1556 probates ;

Some men in the town of Kalax, Närpes,södra Österbotten - inherits from paternal aunt in Stockholm, Herman the bakers wife;

• one red english kirtle linen with grey fur
• one "kåpa"(cloak or sleeveless garment) lined with grey fur

A family in Högsar town, Nagu,Åbo coastline - inherits from a sister in Stockholm ;

• "en palt roock" (everyday garment)
• "2 quinne kåpor" (2 female cloaks)
• "barnabealte 1,5 dussin"
• " en engisk kiortil" (an english kirtle)
• "2 gamble quinne kiortler" (2 old womens kirtles)
• "2 quinnedokar" (2 head linens for women)

1566 probate ;

Peder Jònsson, Ingå,Nyland - after his brother in Stockholm;

Among other things;

• a black english kirtle
• "en swart kasiiacka"
• one jacket (tròia)
• 3 pairs of hoses

TRADE ROUTES 1500 TO APROXIMATLY 1650

It was mostly the farmers in the coastal region who through theire part time trade and sailing to/between(?) Stockholm and Reval, who created part of the necessary economical basis for a town and fashion inspired eviroment. And had the necessary inspiration for this.

Stockholm castle 1540s, 1550s,1560s - either responsible for or possibly kept by (försörjning) - coastal villages from the Viborska bay in the east, to Nyland , Egentliga Finland,Åland and satakunta up to ôsterbotten played a not to be diminissed part. Fish trade was important, but even homeproduced products like vadmål, lärft,boats and chalk were sold.

During the beginning of the 1500s - over a period of 30 years, there is an estimated 500 shipments.

 1560s The priest Jakob Sigfridsson Geet lets the walls of Storkyro medieval church in the Vasa distric be decorated. Despite the rather strick following of the ideals/fashion; german decorated bibles and woodcuts, the unknown artist created the garments himself. You see all the wealthy and powerful in ancle long clothes, furtrimmed kaftans of russian look,the groom wears a modern spanish cloak med a collar, the young men and warriors wear the usual short kirtles of the medieval type with modern "skirts" and medieval hose.A woman at the reception can be seen wearing a spanish cloak with a collar, the female citizens(middleclass) in "fållkjortlar" (pleated kirtles) and different types of things are worn on the head.

Although the paintings might not reflect all aspects of local dress, at least it shows the awareness of fashions of the time among the wealthy.

1650 Kemi churc ;a painting showing what is very probably local dress ; among other things, very outdated (fashionwise) fur kirtles

Cloth ; Priest, other "learned" men, the citizens (middleclass/gentry ?), the kings taxmen (?), writers (notaries and such ?) and the warriors

Vadmel ;Commoners in the towns, apprentices in crafts and footsoliders (?) and the farmers

Cloth often red and vadmel often black for kirtles and jackets, taffetta and "rask" for aprons, "slissing" , linenweave linencanvass (lärft) and hemp linenwoven canvass for headlinen, neckerchiefs and linen garments- Shifts and shirts are also made of "blaggarn" called "hurst".

Mens jackets and coats, pants are made of vadmel and sheepsskin. The clothes would mostly be grey or black.

The wealthier towns people and craftsmen in Åbo and Viborg had a strong foreign , almost german-baltic veneer (påbrå).

For the aristocracy and the gentry. Clothes were mostly imported from Russia, Reval,lübeck,Danzig and Holland.

Tailors were more often a conservative element than a renewing one due to the nature of the guilds. While the tailors of the aristocrats at court might later become members of the guilds and that way ensure a rising of the general standard. The main customer base for the guild tailor would be the town citizens (middleclass / burgers), but towards the end of the 1600s this would aslo include large military orders for uniforms.

A simplified version of the spanish fashions survived in Finland to the middle of the 17thC. By that time it was exchanged by the dutch "rhengreve" style.

The 30 years war prepared the way for the baroque fashions. At the beginning of the 1600s, the cut was the same for the 3 uppermost layers of male society.

For women, the division was sharper. The aristocrats with their piped collars and the town citizens with jackets and skirt. This divison was slowly erased by the 1640s and the influence of dutch middelclass fashions.